Tobar-Mhoire, (Tobermory) Isle of Mull. One Saturday afternoon in September. Drizzling rain and mist shroud the pretty brightly coloured harbourside buildings. We wonder how to fill our time. A large sign beckons us to the Tobermory distillery, definitely a possibility - a tour finishing with a 'wee dram', but sadly it's closed. We decide to brave the rain and look for sustenance. Outside the Masonic hall, the clans are gathering. Men and women in traditional dress, talking in small groups.'What's happening?'. We ask.
We've arrived in the middle of the 70th Mull Provincial Mod; a festival celebrating traditional Gaelic music. We're directed to the mixed choir finals in the town hall, we pay our two pounds for a programme and we're in - out of the rain and enjoying a wholly local experience.
Men are wearing traditional tartan kilts, complete with sporran and long cream knitted socks. The more modest outfits completely cover the knees; kilt and socks allowing no bear flesh. But one or two choristers are showing fleshy knees, twitching in anticipation, uncomfortable in unfamiliar dress. The women have tartan skirts in various forms, with white shirts, some warmed with woolly cardigans. Each choir sports a mixture of tartans, so this is not a clan based competition - it's regional and performers have come from Oban, Dundee and other islands - quite a way. One man is officiating. He's totally comfortable with his kilt and sporran and black dress shoes. He bustles around organising the event, making sure the choirs are ready, summoning conductors and encouraging judges. As the president of the event, he's probably carried out this role many times before. He speaks in English although all the singing is to be in Gaelic.
As the competition begins, the audience is hushed. Everyone is entranced by the unaccompanied voices, the clever arrangements and sometimes the humour incorporated into the performances. Each choir sings two or three songs, then climbs down the steep flight of steps from the stage. Ages range from about eighteen to eighty, male and female all enjoying the experience of singing together.
For us on a wet afternoon in Mull, it was about as good as it could get - thoroughly enjoyable. Many thanks to the people of Tobar-Mhoire for making us so welcome.
